There are many ways to prep the walls and floors prior to installing tile. We used plastic behind a concrete board on the shower and concrete board on the floors. The plastic is just another added layer of protection to help keep any moisture that may get through the tile from damaging the wood and insulation in the walls of the home. There are many other options available on YouTube but this has been my tried and true technique after 12 years of installing tile.
Take extra care to clean out the tub and avoid stepping on the pieces of concrete at all costs. Use concrete board screws to install the board as they are specially coated so that the concrete will not deteriorate the metal over time. Be sure to clean the floors completely before you put in the cement board and do not cut them in place.
Little pieces of concrete and debris will make getting a flat floor very difficult once they are under the board. They can also make popping and grinding noises under the tile while walking on the finished floor.
I cut the board outside or in the garage then bring it in and carefully place it on the floor. A little extra time spent here will make for easier tile laying and a better floor. Before laying the tile add some water to the powdered thinset. Stores usually carry both white and gray.
I always use white since it is a little bit cheaper but stronger than gray. There may be a purpose for the two different colors but I have never seen a difference between the two. I just start adding water in about two cup intervals to half a bucket of thinset as I mix it.
You want to have a mixture that is runny enough to hold on to tile but not so runny that tile falls off the wall. Rice pudding is about the best way to describe it. Remember, the thinset will dry out so let it sit for 10 minutes or so before use to see if you need a little more water. It will continue to dry out as you go, so add a small amount of water if it looks like it is getting too dry. On uneven or unlevel surfaces, always start at the low end, this will require you to cut tile as you go on the first row but that is always better than having a large gap or trying to fit in little pieces.
Spread an even amount of thinset on the wall first and then lay the tiles in, pushing firmly to seat the tile and make sure it adheres well to the thinset. The thinset will suction to the tile and hold it in place if you have the correct consistency. If your tile is not even with the surrounding tiles, then take the time to remove it and add or remove whatever thinset is necessary.
Trying to force the tile to fit will only result in cracked tile or uneven floors. Measure and cut tile as you go and never assume that every cut will be the same as the other rows.
I have never encountered a perfectly straight wall or corner in a house. If using marble or granite tiles, a suction cup can come in handy for lifting or placing tiles especially if you are butting them up without gaps. Generally speaking, marble tile has little to no gap between tiles.
On floors always dry fit the tile to see the layout you want. I like to start at the doorway with a full piece of tile then do the cutting against the walls or tub. This gives a more professional look and dry fitting the tiles will give you an idea on how much you will need to cut. This method can make it very tricky for narrow bathrooms since you have to go in with a few rows and try and work your way back out without moving tiles but if you can do it you will be much happier with the quality of the floor.
Just remember your days of playing twister as a youth, that is about what it feels like. As pictured here I went two rows wide to the bathtub and then had to tile the remaining floor as I backed out. It is very important that you make your lines straight so that it all matches up as you add the final row. Time to bust out the trowel.
Starting from one of the corners of the intersecting chalk lines, apply a layer of mortar with the flat side of the V-notched trowel, creating grooves in the mortar as you go. A small twist will help the adhesive bond more tightly to the tile. Use a rubber mallet to lightly tap the marble tile firmly into place. Despite its durability, be careful not to tap too hard as marble can crack. Before you start laying your marble tiles, inspect them to ensure none are broken or defective.
Continue on in this way with the rest of the tiles, following along on the chalk line you made for reference. Using a tile spacer will assist in maintaining uniform grout lines. The tiles will probably not fit perfectly once you reach the wall, so take note of any gaps to custom cut pieces with a wet saw later. Be sure not to step on the freshly-laid tiles until after they have dried, so the quadrant closest to the door is the one you finish last.
Once all the marble tiles have been set and dried, you will want to safeguard them from cracking, chipping, staining, and general wear and tear by applying a high-quality marble surface sealing agent. This step should be done before the grouting process since the grout mix can stain the tiles.
These cookies will be stored in your browser only with your consent. You also have the option to opt-out of these cookies. But opting out of some of these cookies may affect your browsing experience.
Necessary Necessary. Necessary cookies are absolutely essential for the website to function properly. This category only includes cookies that ensures basic functionalities and security features of the website. These cookies do not store any personal information. Non-necessary Non-necessary. Use tile spacers to maintain consistent spacing between tiles. The spacers should be selected for whatever width you have chosen for the joints. Spacers help ensure the grout lines are sharp and uniform.
After placing every three or four tiles, use a 2-by-4 to ensure that they are at a uniform height. Place the board across the tiles, and tap the board lightly with the rubber mallet. If the marble is polished you may want to cover the front of the wood with a piece of carpet to prevent scratches. You can also do this across multiple rows when you have more tiles installed.
Once you reach the wall with the first row, take note of the gap at the end that may require a custom-cut piece. Then, move back to the center point of the reference lines, and continue to place tiles adjacent to the first row. Take a moment after every few tiles to ensure that all of your lines meet up and the entire floor looks sharp and consistent.
As you work, be careful not to step on any installed tiles. Typically, marble floor tile should be allowed to set for at least 48 hours after installation. Because of this, you have to be careful not to tile yourself into a corner that you can not escape from.
Be sure to leave a traffic path for yourself; the last quadrant you work on should be the one where the door is located. Use a wet tile saw to cut tiles as needed. Smaller, portable saws are able to handle basic straight cuts on tiles up to 12 inches.
Rental charges may include a flat fee for the saw plus a prorated charge for wear on the diamond blade. For difficult cuts, or if you prefer not to use a saw, ask your tile supplier if they will cut pieces for you. If you need to cut holes in marble tile, such as may be necessary if you have plumbing pipes coming up through the floor, special hole saws with diamond-encrusted cutting edges can be used.
The hole saws are simply mounted in a power drill. Make sure to cut at a slow speed to prevent overheating the hole saw. If there is any excess adhesive that has oozed up from the gaps between tiles, use a paint stick or utility knife to remove it.
When all tile has been installed, let the mortar adhesive dry completely, following the manufacturer's directions. Do not walk on the floor during this time, or you risk moving or depressing a tile. Marble is porous, and many materials can penetrate the surface of the stone, causing permanent stains.
0コメント